Tag: history

Exploring Sri Lanka’s Cultural Gems: Dambulla & Sigiriya

With each labored step up the unforgiving incline of Dambulla‘s cave temple, my mind wandered to the sun-kissed shores I had recently left behind. The sting of regret for my ill-chosen footwear was momentarily eclipsed by vivid memories of Sri Lanka’s coastal paradise. Pristine beaches, where the powdery sand met the turquoise expanse of the Indian Ocean, had been my initial playground. There, time seemed to stand still as I basked in the sun, the gentle rhythm of the waves lulling me into blissful tranquility. But the allure of Sri Lanka extended far beyond its coastline.

The cool, crisp air of Nuwara Eliya, the island’s ‘Little England,’ provided a refreshing contrast. Amidst rolling tea plantations and colonial architecture, I indulged in the luxury of a leisurely golf game, a perfect antidote to the tropical heat. As my Sri Lankan adventure neared, I focused on the island’s ancient past. Dambulla and Sigiriya, two iconic sites, beckoned with promises of a glimpse into Sri Lanka’s rich history and culture.

Dambulla, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to the beautiful Royal Rock Temple complex, which sits about 160 meters above the road. Ascending the steps to the temple, I was greeted by a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding countryside; Sigiriya was clearly visible some 20 kilometers distant. The complex comprises five separate caves containing about 150 stunning Buddha statues and paintings, showcasing some of Sri Lanka‘s most important religious art.

Dambulla has been a place of worship since the 1st century BC when King Valagamba, driven out of Anuradhapura, took refuge here. After he regained his throne, he transformed the caves into magnificent rock temples. Subsequent kings added to the cave art, gilding the interiors and earning the place its name Ran Giri (Golden Rock). This continuous enhancement resulted in a breathtakingly coherent visual experience.

Inside, the caves are adorned with intricate frescoes and hundreds of Buddha statues, creating a serene and spiritual atmosphere. The beautiful murals depict scenes from Buddha‘s life and various Jataka tales, each brushstroke a testament to the devotion and skill of ancient artists. The rich, engraved door handles, intricately designed with floral and geometric patterns, add a touch of elegance to the entrances, inviting visitors to step into a world of spiritual tranquility.

My next destination was Sigiriya, often referred to as the Lion Rock. This iconic site, dating back to the 5th century AD, served as the royal residence and fortress of King Kashyapa I. Climbing the steep steps to the summit is a challenging but rewarding experience. The panoramic view from the top is simply breathtaking, with lush greenery stretching as far as the eye can see, punctuated by shimmering lakes. The ruins of the ancient palace and the remnants of the once-impressive lion’s paw are a reminder of the site’s glorious past.

Sigiriya also features the famed “Mirror Wall,” adorned with ancient graffiti and frescoes depicting celestial maidens. These artworks offer a glimpse into the vibrant culture and artistic prowess of Sigiriya‘s inhabitants. Each step on the winding staircases echoes with whispers of the past, inviting visitors to delve deeper into its history.

As the sun began its descent, casting long shadows over the ancient ruins, I reflected on my Sri Lankan journey. From the vibrant energy of the coast to the serene beauty of the highlands, and from the ancient wonders of Dambulla and Sigiriya to the warm hospitality of its people, Sri Lanka has captured my heart. It was a journey that enriched my soul and left me yearning for more. One last look while coming down made the photographer in me capture more beauty from the summit.

This island nation is a tapestry of diverse experiences, offering something for everyone. Whether you seek adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, Sri Lanka has it all. As I bid farewell to this enchanting land, I carried with me a treasure trove of memories that will forever be etched in my heart.

Lucknow’s Hidden Gem: Sikandra Bagh and its Unsung Warrior, Uda Devi

Having lived in Lucknow for years, I never gave Sikandra Bagh much thought. But now, as a tourist in my hometown, I felt a poignant mix of nostalgia and discovery. This unplanned visit stemmed from a morning walk in the Botanical Garden across the road. What I stumbled upon was a hidden treasure of history and heroism.

Sikandra Bagh, though modest today, whispers of a glorious past. It served as his summer retreat, built by the last Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah (1847-1856). Imagine lush gardens flanking a three-towered palace complex, a vibrant Nawabi court. The unique “pair of fish” entrance hinted at Nawabi prosperity, while the architecture itself was a fascinating blend – Chinese pagodas, European arches, and Persian domes in beautiful harmony. Traces of delicate artwork and the lone remaining gateway adorned with Chikankari-like moldings spoke of the monument’s former grandeur.

Standing amidst these remnants, I envisioned Sikandra Bagh in its prime – a testament to Wajid Ali Shah‘s artistic tastes. But Sikandra Bagh‘s story goes beyond its beauty. Within its walls unfolded a fierce battle during the 1857 revolt against the British East India Company. Here, I encountered the tale of Uda Devi, Sikandra Bagh‘s unsung queen.

Uda Devi, born into a Dalit family, was far from royalty. Yet, her spirit burned with the fire of rebellion. Joining forces with Begum Hazrat Mahal, Wajid Ali Shah‘s wife, she formed and led a battalion of Dalit women. The battle at Sikandra Bagh on November 16, 1857, was brutal. Uda Devi‘s leadership and courage stunned the British commander, Colin Campbell. Legend has it that upon learning of her husband, a senior warrior, being martyred, her grief transformed into rage. Determined for revenge, she disguised herself and climbed a banyan tree overlooking the battlefield. Imagine the chaos – the rumble of cannons, the shouts of soldiers. Uda Devi, a lone sniper, picked off British soldiers with deadly accuracy. The sheer number of casualties inflicted by a single “sniper” speaks volumes of her bravery.

Sadly, her story ends tragically. Suspected by the British, she was shot and killed. Around 2,300 freedom fighters perished that day. Ironically, more Victoria Crosses were awarded for this single day than any other in the conflict, many for capturing Sikandra Bagh. Uda Devi, the “Unknown Warrior,” faded into history. A statue stands in her honor today, a reminder amidst the neglected Sikandra Bagh.

This visit left me with mixed emotions – pride in Lucknow’s history and regret for overlooking this gem. Uda Devi‘s story reminds us that heroism can emerge from anywhere. As a tourist in my city, I discovered a monument, a tale of courage, sacrifice, and rebellion. Sikandra Bagh awaits rediscovery, its whispers waiting to be heard. The next time you’re in Lucknow, take a moment to step into this hidden chapter of history. You might just be surprised by what you find.

The Timeless Beauty of Qutub Minar: A Photographer’s Perspective

Being from Delhi, you might think you’ve seen it all. But sometimes, it’s good to behave like a tourist and rediscover the magic in your city. That’s exactly what I did with Qutub Minar, an iconic symbol of Delhi’s rich heritage.

Early mornings at Qutub Minar are a revelation. The soft, golden light bathes the red sandstone and marble carvings in a warm glow, revealing intricate details often missed by the midday crowds. The tranquility of the surroundings, broken only by birdsong, allows you to appreciate the monument’s grandeur. Capturing these details with my camera, the interplay of light and shadow highlighted the exquisite calligraphy and geometric patterns. Each photo told a different story, from the delicate carvings at the base to the intricate balconies that ring the tower.

As the sun climbed higher, Qutub Minar seemed to come alive. The quietude of the early hours gave way to the usual hustle and bustle, but the pre-dawn experience lingered. It was a powerful reminder of the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s significance.

The night offered a completely different perspective. Bathed in soft artificial light, Qutub Minar stood like a sentinel against the inky sky. The dramatic contrast created the perfect backdrop for night photography. The play of light and shadow transformed the familiar details into something almost mystical. The towering presence against the vast darkness evoked a sense of awe. While night photography presented challenges with long exposures and balancing light sources, the results were worth the effort. Each photo captured the monument’s elegance and grandeur uniquely, emphasizing its majestic silhouette.

Qutub Minar, commissioned by Qutb-ud-din Aibak in 1193, stands as a testament to the architectural brilliance of the Delhi Sultanate. Soaring 73 meters, it’s the tallest brick minaret in the world, adorned with intricate carvings and Quranic inscriptions. The surrounding Qutub complex, with its ancient ruins and the enigmatic Iron Pillar, adds layers of history and culture to the site. Walking through it, you can almost imagine the echoes of the past – the early Islamic rulers and the stories of the craftsmen who left their mark. Qutub Minar isn’t just a monument; it’s a portal to a significant period in Indian history, showcasing the confluence of various architectural styles.

Our successful shoots called for a celebration. With a playful glint in her eye, my friend suggested an unorthodox toast – Vodka and Limca (definitely not allowed on the premises!). While we couldn’t indulge, her infectious enthusiasm and playful defiance added a memorable twist to the experience.

Photographing Qutub Minar at dawn and dusk allowed me to capture its beauty in two distinct ways. Whether bathed in golden light or silhouetted against the night sky, the monument never fails to inspire. Through my lens, I hope to share the timeless allure of Qutub Minar, a symbol of Delhi’s rich past and a lasting testament to its architectural legacy.

The Mystique of Sultan Ghari: Oldest Islamic Tomb in India

Not far from one of Delhi’s most-visited monuments lies one of India’s best-kept secrets. At almost 800 years old, it is the oldest surviving Islamic tomb in India—the mausoleum of Nasir ud-Din Mahmud, brother of Razia Sultan and eldest son of Sultan Shams-ud-Din Iltutmish (1167-1236). Built in 1231-1232, Sultan Ghari precedes all other royal mausoleums in India, except for Qutub-ud-Din Aibak’s tomb in Lahore.

Despite its historical significance, Sultan Ghari often remains in the shadows of the more illustrious Qutub Minar, where Nasir’s father Iltutmish is buried. However, beneath its lesser-known status lies a treasure trove of architectural and historical wonders waiting to be discovered.

What sets Sultan Ghari apart is its unique architectural character. Viewed from within or from the entrance, it gives the impression of a fortified stronghold rather than a traditional burial chamber. The bastions, crafted from sturdy red sandstone, create an aura of guardhouses protecting their master. Even today, they stand proudly, their weathered surfaces telling tales of centuries past. It is the only mausoleum in India, and possibly the world, that does not have a tomb covering the burial chamber. As I explored Sultan Ghari, I was struck by the craftsmanship and attention to detail. The octagonal structure, nestled within a courtyard atop a high square plinth, speaks of ancient architectural prowess

The fusion of Islamic and Hindu elements, including intricately sculpted 7th-century panels and lintels, reflects the cultural diversity of India’s heritage. The tomb is built on the site of a Hindu temple and incorporates Hindu masonry, making it a fascinating study of historical syncretism.

Over the centuries, Nasir ud-Din’s tomb has acquired the status of a dargah, with locals believing it holds the remains of their Pir Baba. Every Thursday, people of all faiths gather to offer their prayers, creating a vibrant tapestry of devotion and reverence. The chamber where Nasir ud-Din and two other unnamed tombs lie is a sight of deep devotion, steeped in the aroma of incense, oil lamps, and candle wax. The floor is covered in flowers, oil, turmeric, and other ritual offerings. The aura of the place is so profound that one can almost hear the prayers of the faithful.

The folklore surrounding Sultan Ghari adds a layer of mystique to its history. As the legend goes, the prince’s days might have been rough, but his nights were a “bed of roses.” Every night, he slept on a bed laid with rose petals, meticulously arranged by a slave girl. One day, the girl succumbed to temptation and decided to see what it felt like to lie down on the bed. The prince was scheduled to return late, so she climbed into the bed, which was so comfortable that she drifted off to sleep—only to be woken up by an angry prince five hours later.

Nasir ud-Din dragged her from the bed and ordered her to be flogged. While under the lash, the girl laughed hysterically. The more she was flogged, the more she laughed. An irate prince commanded that she be whipped harder, but it did nothing to halt her mirth. Finally, completely bewildered, Nasir ud-Din put a stop to it and asked her what exactly it was that she found quite so funny.

The girl brazenly replied that if sleeping on his bed for a mere five hours could leave her feeling so vulnerable, how much weaker it must leave him, who slept on it all his life! The baffled prince stood silent. For a man known as Malik-us-Sharq (king of the east), acknowledged for bravery and grit, to be called a weakling was outrageous. She then told him, “You will never be a king of the land but will be the king of souls.”

As an avid traveler and photographer, I find Sultan Ghari’s quiet grandeur both humbling and inspiring. Each visit reveals new stories etched in stone, waiting to be told through my lens. The play of light and shadow on the red sandstone, the intricate details of the carvings, and the serene atmosphere create a perfect setting for capturing moments frozen in time.

The best time to visit Sultan Ghari is from October to March when the weather in Delhi is cooler, providing a more comfortable exploration experience. Despite being less visited, Sultan Ghari appeals greatly to photographers and history enthusiasts alike. Its distinctive appearance as a mausoleum that resembles a fort makes it a captivating subject for architectural photography.

Every day at sunset, this monument in the posh locality of Vasant Kunj yearns for the attention it deserves. Not only is it the resting place of a great warrior of huge importance in Indian history, but it also happens to be the first known Islamic tomb built in India. On the world map, it stands as the only mausoleum of a prince without a tomb covering the burial chamber. The prince who died young still waits for his moment of glory, a silent sentinel to history and devotion.