Sri Lanka: Where Nature Met Genius – My Unexpected Encounter with Geoffrey Bawa

The Greek influence

Sri Lanka had been on my travel bucket list for years. The promise of lush landscapes, pristine beaches, and a rich cultural heritage was irresistible. With my itinerary planned and cities marked, I embarked on my solo adventure, eager to experience this beautiful island nation.

There was one name, however, that kept popping up in conversations with my architect son – Geoffrey Bawa. While I wasn’t familiar with him, at the time, his name seemed to hold a special significance for those in the architectural world. Somehow, amidst the flurry of planning, the name slipped my mind.

Not a painting but the staircase.

Fast forward to checking into the Cinnamon Bentota Beach Hotel. The moment I stepped through the entrance, I was struck by a sense of awe. The design was unlike anything I’d ever seen – open, airy, and seamlessly integrated with the surrounding environment. A spark of memory ignited – my son’s words about Geoffrey Bawa! Suddenly, everything clicked into place.

This wasn’t just a hotel; it was a masterpiece. The days that followed were a revelation. The beaches, hill stations, and train rides of Sri Lanka, while undeniably beautiful, paled in comparison to the captivating genius of Bawa’s design. Every detail, from the use of natural materials to the interplay of light and space, was meticulously crafted to create a haven of tranquility and luxury.

The entrance itself was a portal to a bygone era, echoing the grandeur of Dambulla’s cave temple. The roof design was a clear homage to Sri Lankan Buddhist architecture, yet the overall feel was fresh and contemporary. The expansive layout embraced the lush surroundings, and the clever positioning of the reception area captured the cool ocean breeze, eliminating the need for artificial cooling – a testament to Bawa’s philosophy of “decolonizing architecture.”

Bawa, revered by some architects as a God or rockstar of the field, was a master at erasing the boundaries between the outside and inside. His signature architectural style allowed for an abundance of natural elements to flow freely throughout the hotel. The tropical sun, dappled by strategically placed trees, warmed the spaces. The ocean breeze, a constant companion, carried the scent of saltwater and serenity. Lush greenery, visible from almost every corner, blurred the line between indoors and the vibrant Sri Lankan landscape. The sound of flowing water features added a touch of tranquility to the overall ambiance.

The doorway to the elevator.

Everywhere I turned, there were artistic touches that elevated the ordinary into the extraordinary. The staircase transformed into a gallery, each step an invitation to explore further. The doorway to the elevator was itself a piece of art, and the natural stone finish of the swimming pool blurred the lines between man-made and natural beauty. Even the simple act of setting a table overlooking the sea became an experience, showcasing Bawa’s ability to elevate the mundane.

Every detail, from the grand entrance to the most inconspicuous staircase, was imbued with Bawa’s genius. It was as if the entire hotel was a carefully curated art exhibition, each element meticulously chosen to create a harmonious whole. On my next stop, I ventured to visit his home in Sri Lanka, eager to learn more about the mind behind this architectural masterpiece. But that, as they say, is a story for another time.